Day 24 – Teo to Santiago

And now the day has arrived – our last day on the Camino. It dawned bright and sunny as it had done for the last 24 days. We packed up and headed out.

To me it was a significant day that signalled the end of a great adventure thru 2 countries filled with warm and friendly people, pilgrims from all over the world and experiences I will cherish forever.

We set off without breakfast and without coffee (which Petra has been learning to enjoy under my influence).  We shortly passed by a stand in the forest where a man was selling coffee/tea etc and Petra picked up a tea and he was good enough to take our picture.

Petra surprised me this morning when I was complaining about being hungry – who me! She told me to check her pack and when I did I found a supply of pigs ears from a restaurant we had visited the night before. She had gone back, after I had gone to bed, and secretly bought a bunch that we could enjoy this morning. What a girl!  They are my favorite Spanish pastry and since leaving Portugal my sweet tooth has been suffering (just a bit) in the morning.  We had one each and then gobbled the rest down over coffee later on.

It was a hilly route into Santiago but still picturesque and interesting.        We eventually arrived at the magnificent cathedral square.  It was very busy with people everywhere and only a half hour before the noon service where the pendulum swings.

I wanted to look around longer for a fellow blogger and pilgrim,  Maggie, but we were running out of time and I could not see her anyway. My only disappointment of the day.   We  found a place to stow our packs (they are not allowed in the cathedral) and then  went into the packed cathedral – standing room only, altho we did find some stairs to sit on.

The service began and I didn’t understand one word  of it. That didn’t stop me from enjoying it however, as I rested my head on my arm and surprisingly fell asleep. I hope Saint James will forgive me.  I awoke in time to see the incense burner do it’s long swing back and forth.  It is said that they originally burnt incense to counteract the stench of the pilgrims. As we hadn’t showered yet, I think it can still be said. But quite a show inside with many cameras going off and people moving to and fro for a better view.

   We then went out for Petra’s last lunch in Spain before she was to head for the bus depot to catch a bus to the airport. I tried one mouthful of octopus and that was enough for me. The squid was delicious as was another plate of pimientos.

It was only a 15 minute walk to the bus depot, where I also will be going soon enough. It was a teary farewell for me as I said goodbye to Petra.  I hope I will see her again one day.

Now the day really felt odd.  No walking tomorrow, no buddy Petra. I know I will be fine but it will take some getting used to after being so active for so long and with such good company.

I went to my new home, the albergue called ‘The Last Stamp’ and it is a clean, modern and well run place. I have a lower bunk with my own locker with combination and 2 electrical outlets with small shelves within my bunk unit.  The sheet and pillowcase are clean and folded and real cotton, not the paper I had become used to in Spain.  It doesn’t take much to impress me anymore. I have developed a new appreciation for small things.

Once settled and cleaned up I headed out onto the twisty small streets of Santiago, saying a silent prayer for guidance there and back.  I found a small restaurant near the cathedral that had wifi and enjoyed a cold beer while corresponding. My position and view could not have been any better as you can see from the photo below.

 Soon I was ordering a glass of wine, soup, and yet another plate of pimientos.  Glorious!

Tomorrow I have booked a bus tour to Finisterre where at one time was thought of as the end of the world.  A good day off my feet.  I want the following day free to see the German girls Claudia and Uli come into Santiago.

Spanish flowers

    

      
 
   

    

  

 

  

 

 

    
 

Day 23 – Caldas de Reis to Teo

An early morning start with most of the other pilgrims. We walked on more quiet country roads without the packs  of cyclists  we had yesterday.  

 We walked a longer day so that we would be only 13 kms to Santiago tomorrow.

We made it to the big city of Padron and found a market and stocked up on fruit for the next days march. On leaving the city we were lucky enough to spot a restaurant that had pimientos so we shared a plate of those as they are one of the Padron specialties.   Delicious!

 Onwards we trekked and were soon approaching the small town of Teo. Our feet were getting tired so we stopped for refreshments and a boots off break. As we sat there we saw a few pilgrims going by and that made us nervous about accommodation. So we quickly packed up and went into our high gear, passing a few elderly gents on the hill. Petra felt bad because she didn’t want to take a bed they might need. I told her they were probably not even going to the same albergue and sure enough, we found out later they were staying elsewhere. So unnecessary guilt.

We made it to the albergue and it had room for 24 pilgrims on 12 bunks. So on the perfect small side for me and in a very quiet location as well. I had a shower and then had a sound and refreshing nap. Still trying to catch up on sleep.

Later we got together with Leah from Denmark in search of a restaurant. Petra and I wanted more pimientos for dinner and a salad and Leah wanted squid. Unfortunately for  Leah they were out of squid but Petra and I enjoyed a delicious meal which included pimientos and salad/bread and one other dish.

Now time to head back and get a good nights rest before our final walk to Santiago tomorrow.  I will be walking there happy and sad. Happy for the amazing journey I’ve been on.  I’ve been honoured meeting so many wonderful people like Thea from Holland, German sisters Claudia and Uli, Mattie from Spain, Jurgen from Germany, Laurie Reynolds in Lisbon, possibly my super star trekker Maggie from Spain and always a most special place in my heart, dear Petra from Croatia who has been my Camino daughter.  It will feel sad for this Camino to end, but it ends with the knowledge I will be back.
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Day 22 – Pontevedra to Caldas De Reis

I was up very early on account of not sleeping well under crowded and hot conditions. I know what to avoid in the future. Lasts nights accommodations did not suit me well and I was happy to hit the road early today.  Off into the cool morning air!

As we passed thru the city it became obvious that there had been quite the party(s) going on last night and they weren’t quite over yet.  There was still lots of people weaving their way along the streets.  As we left the city, our early rise was rewarded with a most dazzling sky.   Today’s walk was mostly along lovely country paths, but with many cycling groups who zip on by. I really do wish they would be more courteous and announce their approach to us walkers. Serious accidents could occur as they go very quickly at times which makes them hard to hear.

We stopped after a while for that first cup of coffee which always tastes so good. As we sat there, we saw many pilgrims go by and also come in. We could see it was going to be another heavy day of pilgrim traffic. So we got back on the road as quickly as we could. We were determined to be the early arrivals at the next albergue and snatch up the bottom bunks.

Enroute Petra spied a roadside stand selling the coveted “cherry” she likes so much. We were soon walking along filling our faces on some of the best cherries Spain had to offer.

We met a nice young woman from Holland a few kms before our destination and so the time passed quickly as we chatted along and entered the city over another stellar bridge.

 Caldas de Reis is a very lovely small city. It is noted for its thermal waters reaching 40 degrees celsius.  There are several free pools for putting your feet and legs in. Once settled in at the albergue that is exactly what we did. Boy, did that ever feel good!  The small pool was really hot and the larger one was more bearable

 We headed next for refreshments at one of the beautiful cafés along the river where I was painfully still trying to find good wifi to attach pictures to my blogs and publish. That’s one thing we have noticed in Spain, and that is the wifi is not that reliable.

We had heard that there was a waterfall some 2 kms up the river and we felt refreshed enough to go and find it.  It felt good to walk along the path without the weight of a heavy pack and tired feet. We were soon at the falls.  The journey there was most lovely and the falls themselves were spectacular. Lots of flattish round rocks to lie on.  It didn’t take long before I was dozing on the warm rocks with the sound of water crashing all around.  It was a hard place to leave.

Day 21 – Moss to Pontevedra

We were off this morning by 7:30, which is a little late for a long day. Our first coffee happened about an hour later at a very quiet cafe in the middle of nowhere. We had 3 well cared for dogs as company in the back yard patio.

We continued on until the gorgeous town of Arcade which is definitely a seaside community. We stopped for refreshments there and then continued on thru the most amazing countryside with views every way you looked.       On the approach to Pontevedra we chose the riverside route instead of the road and were rewarded with a gentle approach to town on a path alongside a small river.     We arrived at the new and popular albergue housing 70 pilgrims which is the largest I’ve been in by far. I am on the top bunk tonight with very little space between.  Tomorrow we will look for something smaller and it will be a shorter day. We went to the market and bought some supplies for a simple dinner. The necessary bottle of wine was not forgotten.

The place is humming right now and internet access is possible but performance is lacking. This blog will not be posted until tomorrow sometime when wi-fi connection is better. I am grateful that wifi connection is just as important to Petra as it is to me.

Tomorrow we’re getting up early to beat this pilgrim pack to the next and smaller albergue.

Also I have introduced Petra to my running term “road kill”, which we successfully perform all day long.

Day 20 – Valenca to Mos

 Petra and I began early again while it was still cool.  We approached the bridge dividing Portugal from Spain with a little sadness  and anticipation about what these next stages would be like in a different country.  We saw a great sign inviting us in for one more cerveza, but at 7 a.m. it was still a little early.

 And so we entered Spain, just like that.  And not a coffee shop could we find as we wandered thru the ancient streets of Tui.

Finally as we walked along a quiet, wide tree lined road, Petra who speaks some fine Spanish spied an older gentleman and asked him about any nearby coffee shops. He was very happy to chat with her and shared that every day he walked on the Camino talking and helping pilgrims. He led us to the end of the street and pointed down the road 100 meters or so to a coffee shop that was open and had a good reputation for home cooked food.  Bonus!  And thank you very much kind Spanish gentleman. So instead of walking the next 2 hours hungry, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs, bread and really good coffee. Even tea drinking Petra enjoyed the coffee.

We continued walking  and it was beautiful along the forest trails. Quiet and peaceful – just like Portugal.

  

 We passed by many workers and they would wish us a buenos dias or hola. There is new grammar to be learned in Spain.   As the temperature climbed we came across a cafe with lots of other pilgrims. We stopped for a cold drink and they brought us  some pinchos as well. This is free food in Spain and usually accompanies a drink.

We carried on and were told to watch out ahead where the roads would get confusing with a “battle of the arrows.” It seems like the Camino people had arrows bypassing an industrial area and thru a beautiful forest area. The business community did not like the diversion of their “customers” and so struck out the arrows to redirect pilgrims back towards the busier area, and on it went. We were told to stay to the left when we saw black arrows about a kilometre up the road. So that’s what we did and continued to enjoy a peaceful walk.

The day wore on and as usual for us we were walking during the hottest time. We passed thru the town of Porrino and stopped into a pasteliria and super market where we stocked up a bit and then continued on for the final stretch to Mos. Once we got there I was done – it had been a long. It was a lovely village and kind of reminded me of a small ski village. The albergue was ok and the restaurant later on was also good. We had a large and very good salad with vegetarian pasta, bread, wine and dessert for 8 euros. We certainly aren’t starving.

 

Portuguese flowers

I’ve been storing these beautiful flower pics up to share all at once for any flower enthusiasts…

     

   

      

   

    

    

Day 19 – Ponte de Lima to Valenca

Most everyone from the albergue was up early this morning – 6 am to get an early start in order to beat some of the heat.  I just heard it was 33 degrees today.

Walking out of Ponte de Lima we were warned of a big hill and there it was after 3 kms or so.  We took our time and chose our footing carefully.  This is the most elevation I’ve encountered so far, so not bad.  Even with the climb it was still a most beautiful walk. We passed by  a few waterfalls, the creek seemed always to be near and the forest was  lush and alive with birds singing.

 

  We noticed that many of the trees had plastic bags attached to them for collecting their sap or is it resin?  Some looked quite old and forgotten while others looked more “fresh” if that word can be used.  As we will be leaving Portugal tomorrow and entering Spain we decided it was time to have our last pastel de nata – and they were really good ones.   We reached  the town of Rubias quite quickly and decided to push on another 18 kms to Valenca.  We took lots of breaks but by the end of the  day we were feeling the heat. The hottest time in Portugal is between 3 to 4 o’clock and lucky us, we were walking in it again. When we got too unbearably hot and tired, we stopped for a beer and that helped us push on for the final 3 kms. The Albergue S Teotonio seems to be a well run place. We were quickly shown around to the common area, patio, laundry area – yeah there’s a washing machine!  There are bunks upstairs with linen and pillows.  So  for 5 euros it’s great value.

Day 18 – Lugar Do Corgo to Ponte de Lima

 It would be a short walk of 12 kms today to give the feet a rest and also to enjoy the town of Ponte de Lima. After a good breakfast we set out on the road and into what was supposed to be a very warm day.  It was.

  

We walked along country roads and over many cobbles. We passed quite a few pilgrims. There were some new people on the road today – two friends (Columbia and Spain) and more Germans.         We entered  Ponte de Lima on a beautiful wide boulevard bordered on each side with 100 year old plane trees.  The river to our left. What a spectacular entrance to this city!

  We found the albergue after crossing a lovely old bridge with piped in music.

 Unfortunately it would not be opening until four o’clock.  That meant over a 3 hour wait for us. I blogged and drank beer and Petra napped.  We went for a walk and when we returned it was time to go inside, claim  our bed, shower and  get settled. There were 60 beds divided into 2 dorm rooms. Good shower area and other nice  gathering rooms for pilgrims. Cerfew was 10 o’clock. All this for 5 euros so not bad at all. There was a beautiful view from our building too.  Daytime and night.   Petra and I walked into town and did some exploring.  

 A couple beer, pastries, cherries etc was gratefully consumed, all while sitting on the park bench gazing out at the river.  

 When it was finally time for dinner we found a great place just before town. The daily meal included soup, bread, vegetables, salmon or a mixed kabob and finally dessert and coffee.  All for a reasonable price of  only 7 euros.  

Day 17 – Pedra Furada to Lugar Do Corgo

 I was the first to rise this morning and after I got all my stuff outside the room where I could organize them, I was on my way by 6:45 and headed to meet Petra some 7 kms away in Barcelos. As luck would have it, the South African couple Sue and Bill were heading out at the same time. So I had great company all the way there. It was a nice early morning walk on quiet country roads. 

  After a while I noticed a dear little black lab puppy upside down in the garden, tummy to the sky. I can never resist a puppy and this was a very well cared for happy pup so it wasn’t  long before she was getting her belly rubbed. A great way to start the day with puppy love.  

Passing thru Barcelos there was the famous rooster for which there is an old story. Below is a picture of the bird by itself and a more silly one later on. Some things are hard to resist. 

 I found Petra in the square in Barcelos.  We had coffee and a few morning pastries while we caught up on the last week.   Now we were ready to do the more serious business of filling up water bottles, sunscreen and a pre walk trip to the bathroom.  We got on the road finally and headed for Casa Fernanda, which for me would make a 34 km day.
It was nice to be walking with Petra again and as usual we had a lot to share.  Love this girl!

The countryside stayed quiet and I noticed a lot more pilgrims on the road today. There was the couple from South Africa, another from Scotland, and also a couple from Ireland and Australia.  
       Our first break was around 11 and we had some delicious vegetable soup of which the Portuguese are known for.   Next was the beer break shortly before we should have arrived and there was a great gathering of thirsty hot pilgrims, none the least us.   It was a typical camino day of misdirection. We got off track for a while but it didn’t take too long to find our way.  We were really feeling the heat in that last hour tho. Two very thankful  pilgrims arrived at the Casa Fernanda and it seemed like the party was already going on. What a wonderful afternoon of celebrating another end to the day on the Camino. Our dorm room is very nice with 16 beds well spaced apart.  There are 2 bathrooms for 14 pilgrims which is adequate. Payment is by donation and includes dinner, breakfast and drinks. Very good value.

  There was wine and a sangria type drink flowing before dinner and some sausage was barbecued with buns just to wet our appetites as we waited for dinner.  Fernanda prepared a hearty and traditional  dinner of  soup and bread, followed by chicken, rice and a salad. Add bottles of red and white wine and you’ve got some very happy pilgrims.  
 After dinner we headed back outside to the yard where a German pilgrim called Arnold played guitar while he sang songs.  Everyone was in a very jolly mood by now.  Pilgrim party in full  blast!        Lots of people took turns singing songs from their respective countries.  Petra was particularly good with a lovely strong voice. I would have sang if I had half her voice.

Fernanda and her husband got in the act and sang a few songs that I didn’t understand, but still enjoyed.   

 The whole night was lots of fun which meant I wasn’t blogging until much later and am finishing and posting the next day – which is alright too, so says the Camino.