Day 22 – Pontevedra to Caldas De Reis

I was up very early on account of not sleeping well under crowded and hot conditions. I know what to avoid in the future. Lasts nights accommodations did not suit me well and I was happy to hit the road early today.  Off into the cool morning air!

As we passed thru the city it became obvious that there had been quite the party(s) going on last night and they weren’t quite over yet.  There was still lots of people weaving their way along the streets.  As we left the city, our early rise was rewarded with a most dazzling sky.   Today’s walk was mostly along lovely country paths, but with many cycling groups who zip on by. I really do wish they would be more courteous and announce their approach to us walkers. Serious accidents could occur as they go very quickly at times which makes them hard to hear.

We stopped after a while for that first cup of coffee which always tastes so good. As we sat there, we saw many pilgrims go by and also come in. We could see it was going to be another heavy day of pilgrim traffic. So we got back on the road as quickly as we could. We were determined to be the early arrivals at the next albergue and snatch up the bottom bunks.

Enroute Petra spied a roadside stand selling the coveted “cherry” she likes so much. We were soon walking along filling our faces on some of the best cherries Spain had to offer.

We met a nice young woman from Holland a few kms before our destination and so the time passed quickly as we chatted along and entered the city over another stellar bridge.

 Caldas de Reis is a very lovely small city. It is noted for its thermal waters reaching 40 degrees celsius.  There are several free pools for putting your feet and legs in. Once settled in at the albergue that is exactly what we did. Boy, did that ever feel good!  The small pool was really hot and the larger one was more bearable

 We headed next for refreshments at one of the beautiful cafés along the river where I was painfully still trying to find good wifi to attach pictures to my blogs and publish. That’s one thing we have noticed in Spain, and that is the wifi is not that reliable.

We had heard that there was a waterfall some 2 kms up the river and we felt refreshed enough to go and find it.  It felt good to walk along the path without the weight of a heavy pack and tired feet. We were soon at the falls.  The journey there was most lovely and the falls themselves were spectacular. Lots of flattish round rocks to lie on.  It didn’t take long before I was dozing on the warm rocks with the sound of water crashing all around.  It was a hard place to leave.

Day 21 – Moss to Pontevedra

We were off this morning by 7:30, which is a little late for a long day. Our first coffee happened about an hour later at a very quiet cafe in the middle of nowhere. We had 3 well cared for dogs as company in the back yard patio.

We continued on until the gorgeous town of Arcade which is definitely a seaside community. We stopped for refreshments there and then continued on thru the most amazing countryside with views every way you looked.       On the approach to Pontevedra we chose the riverside route instead of the road and were rewarded with a gentle approach to town on a path alongside a small river.     We arrived at the new and popular albergue housing 70 pilgrims which is the largest I’ve been in by far. I am on the top bunk tonight with very little space between.  Tomorrow we will look for something smaller and it will be a shorter day. We went to the market and bought some supplies for a simple dinner. The necessary bottle of wine was not forgotten.

The place is humming right now and internet access is possible but performance is lacking. This blog will not be posted until tomorrow sometime when wi-fi connection is better. I am grateful that wifi connection is just as important to Petra as it is to me.

Tomorrow we’re getting up early to beat this pilgrim pack to the next and smaller albergue.

Also I have introduced Petra to my running term “road kill”, which we successfully perform all day long.

Day 20 – Valenca to Mos

 Petra and I began early again while it was still cool.  We approached the bridge dividing Portugal from Spain with a little sadness  and anticipation about what these next stages would be like in a different country.  We saw a great sign inviting us in for one more cerveza, but at 7 a.m. it was still a little early.

 And so we entered Spain, just like that.  And not a coffee shop could we find as we wandered thru the ancient streets of Tui.

Finally as we walked along a quiet, wide tree lined road, Petra who speaks some fine Spanish spied an older gentleman and asked him about any nearby coffee shops. He was very happy to chat with her and shared that every day he walked on the Camino talking and helping pilgrims. He led us to the end of the street and pointed down the road 100 meters or so to a coffee shop that was open and had a good reputation for home cooked food.  Bonus!  And thank you very much kind Spanish gentleman. So instead of walking the next 2 hours hungry, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast of scrambled eggs, bread and really good coffee. Even tea drinking Petra enjoyed the coffee.

We continued walking  and it was beautiful along the forest trails. Quiet and peaceful – just like Portugal.

  

 We passed by many workers and they would wish us a buenos dias or hola. There is new grammar to be learned in Spain.   As the temperature climbed we came across a cafe with lots of other pilgrims. We stopped for a cold drink and they brought us  some pinchos as well. This is free food in Spain and usually accompanies a drink.

We carried on and were told to watch out ahead where the roads would get confusing with a “battle of the arrows.” It seems like the Camino people had arrows bypassing an industrial area and thru a beautiful forest area. The business community did not like the diversion of their “customers” and so struck out the arrows to redirect pilgrims back towards the busier area, and on it went. We were told to stay to the left when we saw black arrows about a kilometre up the road. So that’s what we did and continued to enjoy a peaceful walk.

The day wore on and as usual for us we were walking during the hottest time. We passed thru the town of Porrino and stopped into a pasteliria and super market where we stocked up a bit and then continued on for the final stretch to Mos. Once we got there I was done – it had been a long. It was a lovely village and kind of reminded me of a small ski village. The albergue was ok and the restaurant later on was also good. We had a large and very good salad with vegetarian pasta, bread, wine and dessert for 8 euros. We certainly aren’t starving.

 

Portuguese flowers

I’ve been storing these beautiful flower pics up to share all at once for any flower enthusiasts…

     

   

      

   

    

    

Day 19 – Ponte de Lima to Valenca

Most everyone from the albergue was up early this morning – 6 am to get an early start in order to beat some of the heat.  I just heard it was 33 degrees today.

Walking out of Ponte de Lima we were warned of a big hill and there it was after 3 kms or so.  We took our time and chose our footing carefully.  This is the most elevation I’ve encountered so far, so not bad.  Even with the climb it was still a most beautiful walk. We passed by  a few waterfalls, the creek seemed always to be near and the forest was  lush and alive with birds singing.

 

  We noticed that many of the trees had plastic bags attached to them for collecting their sap or is it resin?  Some looked quite old and forgotten while others looked more “fresh” if that word can be used.  As we will be leaving Portugal tomorrow and entering Spain we decided it was time to have our last pastel de nata – and they were really good ones.   We reached  the town of Rubias quite quickly and decided to push on another 18 kms to Valenca.  We took lots of breaks but by the end of the  day we were feeling the heat. The hottest time in Portugal is between 3 to 4 o’clock and lucky us, we were walking in it again. When we got too unbearably hot and tired, we stopped for a beer and that helped us push on for the final 3 kms. The Albergue S Teotonio seems to be a well run place. We were quickly shown around to the common area, patio, laundry area – yeah there’s a washing machine!  There are bunks upstairs with linen and pillows.  So  for 5 euros it’s great value.

Day 18 – Lugar Do Corgo to Ponte de Lima

 It would be a short walk of 12 kms today to give the feet a rest and also to enjoy the town of Ponte de Lima. After a good breakfast we set out on the road and into what was supposed to be a very warm day.  It was.

  

We walked along country roads and over many cobbles. We passed quite a few pilgrims. There were some new people on the road today – two friends (Columbia and Spain) and more Germans.         We entered  Ponte de Lima on a beautiful wide boulevard bordered on each side with 100 year old plane trees.  The river to our left. What a spectacular entrance to this city!

  We found the albergue after crossing a lovely old bridge with piped in music.

 Unfortunately it would not be opening until four o’clock.  That meant over a 3 hour wait for us. I blogged and drank beer and Petra napped.  We went for a walk and when we returned it was time to go inside, claim  our bed, shower and  get settled. There were 60 beds divided into 2 dorm rooms. Good shower area and other nice  gathering rooms for pilgrims. Cerfew was 10 o’clock. All this for 5 euros so not bad at all. There was a beautiful view from our building too.  Daytime and night.   Petra and I walked into town and did some exploring.  

 A couple beer, pastries, cherries etc was gratefully consumed, all while sitting on the park bench gazing out at the river.  

 When it was finally time for dinner we found a great place just before town. The daily meal included soup, bread, vegetables, salmon or a mixed kabob and finally dessert and coffee.  All for a reasonable price of  only 7 euros.  

Day 17 – Pedra Furada to Lugar Do Corgo

 I was the first to rise this morning and after I got all my stuff outside the room where I could organize them, I was on my way by 6:45 and headed to meet Petra some 7 kms away in Barcelos. As luck would have it, the South African couple Sue and Bill were heading out at the same time. So I had great company all the way there. It was a nice early morning walk on quiet country roads. 

  After a while I noticed a dear little black lab puppy upside down in the garden, tummy to the sky. I can never resist a puppy and this was a very well cared for happy pup so it wasn’t  long before she was getting her belly rubbed. A great way to start the day with puppy love.  

Passing thru Barcelos there was the famous rooster for which there is an old story. Below is a picture of the bird by itself and a more silly one later on. Some things are hard to resist. 

 I found Petra in the square in Barcelos.  We had coffee and a few morning pastries while we caught up on the last week.   Now we were ready to do the more serious business of filling up water bottles, sunscreen and a pre walk trip to the bathroom.  We got on the road finally and headed for Casa Fernanda, which for me would make a 34 km day.
It was nice to be walking with Petra again and as usual we had a lot to share.  Love this girl!

The countryside stayed quiet and I noticed a lot more pilgrims on the road today. There was the couple from South Africa, another from Scotland, and also a couple from Ireland and Australia.  
       Our first break was around 11 and we had some delicious vegetable soup of which the Portuguese are known for.   Next was the beer break shortly before we should have arrived and there was a great gathering of thirsty hot pilgrims, none the least us.   It was a typical camino day of misdirection. We got off track for a while but it didn’t take too long to find our way.  We were really feeling the heat in that last hour tho. Two very thankful  pilgrims arrived at the Casa Fernanda and it seemed like the party was already going on. What a wonderful afternoon of celebrating another end to the day on the Camino. Our dorm room is very nice with 16 beds well spaced apart.  There are 2 bathrooms for 14 pilgrims which is adequate. Payment is by donation and includes dinner, breakfast and drinks. Very good value.

  There was wine and a sangria type drink flowing before dinner and some sausage was barbecued with buns just to wet our appetites as we waited for dinner.  Fernanda prepared a hearty and traditional  dinner of  soup and bread, followed by chicken, rice and a salad. Add bottles of red and white wine and you’ve got some very happy pilgrims.  
 After dinner we headed back outside to the yard where a German pilgrim called Arnold played guitar while he sang songs.  Everyone was in a very jolly mood by now.  Pilgrim party in full  blast!        Lots of people took turns singing songs from their respective countries.  Petra was particularly good with a lovely strong voice. I would have sang if I had half her voice.

Fernanda and her husband got in the act and sang a few songs that I didn’t understand, but still enjoyed.   

 The whole night was lots of fun which meant I wasn’t blogging until much later and am finishing and posting the next day – which is alright too, so says the Camino.

Day 16 – Lavra to Pedra Furada

Juergen and I were on the road by 7 this morning, but not before collecting our Pilgrims Passport s back from the office. It’s the first place that has done that. They must have had some encounters with shady pilgrims in the past – it’s the only reason I can think of.

I must say the scenery was not very good today. We walked on mostly busy roads and sidewalks. Plus we were in a few industrial areas.  We ended up on the old route to reconnect Coastal to main Portuguese route and it was so very poorly marked – almost needed a magnifying glass at some intersections. It was at such a place that we found no marker at all and ended up wandering around for almost an hour – getting nowhere in a hurry. I wanted to go back to the last arrow and go from there but that did not happen.

Near the end of my patience we were directed to a cafe where the gal who ran the place spoke excellent English – and that’s because she was from Toronto Canada.  Yes!!

The long and short of it was that we took a taxi to Rates. Once there Jurgen checked into the albergue and I walked a further 7 kms to Pedra Furada. I had read many good reports about the place there so was happy that the taxi ride made it possible to have the energy left for the final push. That stretch of the walk was once again stunning. I see they have the giant white marshmellows in Portugal just like we have at home.  I really think the Portuguese country side is beautiful.  

  
 I found the restaurant named Pedra Furada and Antonio who runs the albergue for pilgrims in the back. While I was checking in a couple other pilgrims arrived. And guess where they were from? !!!  Canada, and more specifically South Surrey, which is a 20 minute drive from where I live. Now if that is not a small world I don’t know what is!!

I am back in Pilgrim heaven after a tough day on the road.  Antonio’s sister will be preparing us a chicken dish with rice tonight.  It’s a lovely place – I’m sharing a dorm room with the 2 Surrey pilgrims and now the last girl (Croatia) in our room has just arrived.  She said “hello” as she passed by so you know what that means – speaks English!

Day 15 – Porto to Lavra

 Said my goodbyes to Adam and Chrissy this morning – I’m going to miss their company but will see them again soon in Paris on June 5th, so something more to look forward to.   I walked down to the square and had some coffee and pastries at a cafe while I waited for my meetup with Jurgun. He and I will be travelling part of the coastal route together. I decided to have a short day today so as to spend time in the nice little seaside village of Lavra that has been highly recommended by other pilgrims.  I thought I might try the coastal route if the weather remained good. So far we have been amazingly lucky with the sunshine and warm weather. We have not had one day of rain or even clouds.  This is abnormal but I’m not complaining. So what if I brought a rain jacket for nothing.  Probably if I didn’t bring it we’d have had nothing but rain. That’s how it often works isn’t it?

We took the metro out of Porto and I remembered how to get us there from the day before. Maybe I’m getting better with my directions.   Once we arrived at Matosinhos we began our walk towards the ocean. It didn’t take long – within 15 minites we were  there and the Atlantic Ocean  before us. There was a wide gravel pathway that we walked on for quite some time, later to be replaced with a wooden boardwalk.   The walk was calm and peaceful after the business of Porto.  We saw surfers, sun bathers and many runners. It made me want to slip out of my boots and join them for a run along the seashore.  
 We arrived at Lavra and found the camping place and it’s a dear little building with 2 small rooms, a mini fridge, electricity, wifi and a little deck out front with table and chairs – all this for only $16 euros a night total.   We headed into town which was nearby and sat admiring the Atlantic Ocean for a while as the surf pounded the rocks. Bliss!  This is small community but with lots of hussle and bustle. As we sat there this afternoon having coffee we saw a lot of pilgrims going by.  I’ve heard that after Porto it gets a lot busier as many pilgrims prefer the shorter distance of Porto to Santiago, rather than from Lisboa. To each their own.  I’m just so grateful to have discovered the Caminos. I will be back!

Day 14 – Porto, more fun with Adam and Chrissy

Short post today.  It was a day to show Adam and Chrissy the Lello Bookstore, followed by a trip on the metro out to the beach area at Matosinhos.  While there I checked out the arrows for the coastal route for the camino. Walked over the bridge and saw the first arrow. I may be walking with Jurgen tomorrow as he has been in touch and is also interested in that route. It would be nice to start the second half of this camino with some company.  
 They have many seafood restaurants in this area and it seemed like everyone was barbecuing fish. After spending a little time on the sand we went for a big and delicious meal of fish and all the accompaniments.  I had my first sampling of swordfish and it was superb!

 Took the subway back to the other side of Porto and where they were having a free Fado performance. We caught a good half hour and sipped some Port while we watched and listened. 

   Another good day. Tomorrow the walking  begins again. Weather forecast is for more good weather 26 and 27 degrees for the next 5 days.  So lucky and so grateful!  Adam and Chrissy will be off to the Azores – Portuguese islands off the coast and reported to be quite beautiful.