Day 19 – Ponte de Lima to Valenca

Most everyone from the albergue was up early this morning – 6 am to get an early start in order to beat some of the heat.  I just heard it was 33 degrees today.

Walking out of Ponte de Lima we were warned of a big hill and there it was after 3 kms or so.  We took our time and chose our footing carefully.  This is the most elevation I’ve encountered so far, so not bad.  Even with the climb it was still a most beautiful walk. We passed by  a few waterfalls, the creek seemed always to be near and the forest was  lush and alive with birds singing.

 

  We noticed that many of the trees had plastic bags attached to them for collecting their sap or is it resin?  Some looked quite old and forgotten while others looked more “fresh” if that word can be used.  As we will be leaving Portugal tomorrow and entering Spain we decided it was time to have our last pastel de nata – and they were really good ones.   We reached  the town of Rubias quite quickly and decided to push on another 18 kms to Valenca.  We took lots of breaks but by the end of the  day we were feeling the heat. The hottest time in Portugal is between 3 to 4 o’clock and lucky us, we were walking in it again. When we got too unbearably hot and tired, we stopped for a beer and that helped us push on for the final 3 kms. The Albergue S Teotonio seems to be a well run place. We were quickly shown around to the common area, patio, laundry area – yeah there’s a washing machine!  There are bunks upstairs with linen and pillows.  So  for 5 euros it’s great value.

Day 18 – Lugar Do Corgo to Ponte de Lima

 It would be a short walk of 12 kms today to give the feet a rest and also to enjoy the town of Ponte de Lima. After a good breakfast we set out on the road and into what was supposed to be a very warm day.  It was.

  

We walked along country roads and over many cobbles. We passed quite a few pilgrims. There were some new people on the road today – two friends (Columbia and Spain) and more Germans.         We entered  Ponte de Lima on a beautiful wide boulevard bordered on each side with 100 year old plane trees.  The river to our left. What a spectacular entrance to this city!

  We found the albergue after crossing a lovely old bridge with piped in music.

 Unfortunately it would not be opening until four o’clock.  That meant over a 3 hour wait for us. I blogged and drank beer and Petra napped.  We went for a walk and when we returned it was time to go inside, claim  our bed, shower and  get settled. There were 60 beds divided into 2 dorm rooms. Good shower area and other nice  gathering rooms for pilgrims. Cerfew was 10 o’clock. All this for 5 euros so not bad at all. There was a beautiful view from our building too.  Daytime and night.   Petra and I walked into town and did some exploring.  

 A couple beer, pastries, cherries etc was gratefully consumed, all while sitting on the park bench gazing out at the river.  

 When it was finally time for dinner we found a great place just before town. The daily meal included soup, bread, vegetables, salmon or a mixed kabob and finally dessert and coffee.  All for a reasonable price of  only 7 euros.  

Day 17 – Pedra Furada to Lugar Do Corgo

 I was the first to rise this morning and after I got all my stuff outside the room where I could organize them, I was on my way by 6:45 and headed to meet Petra some 7 kms away in Barcelos. As luck would have it, the South African couple Sue and Bill were heading out at the same time. So I had great company all the way there. It was a nice early morning walk on quiet country roads. 

  After a while I noticed a dear little black lab puppy upside down in the garden, tummy to the sky. I can never resist a puppy and this was a very well cared for happy pup so it wasn’t  long before she was getting her belly rubbed. A great way to start the day with puppy love.  

Passing thru Barcelos there was the famous rooster for which there is an old story. Below is a picture of the bird by itself and a more silly one later on. Some things are hard to resist. 

 I found Petra in the square in Barcelos.  We had coffee and a few morning pastries while we caught up on the last week.   Now we were ready to do the more serious business of filling up water bottles, sunscreen and a pre walk trip to the bathroom.  We got on the road finally and headed for Casa Fernanda, which for me would make a 34 km day.
It was nice to be walking with Petra again and as usual we had a lot to share.  Love this girl!

The countryside stayed quiet and I noticed a lot more pilgrims on the road today. There was the couple from South Africa, another from Scotland, and also a couple from Ireland and Australia.  
       Our first break was around 11 and we had some delicious vegetable soup of which the Portuguese are known for.   Next was the beer break shortly before we should have arrived and there was a great gathering of thirsty hot pilgrims, none the least us.   It was a typical camino day of misdirection. We got off track for a while but it didn’t take too long to find our way.  We were really feeling the heat in that last hour tho. Two very thankful  pilgrims arrived at the Casa Fernanda and it seemed like the party was already going on. What a wonderful afternoon of celebrating another end to the day on the Camino. Our dorm room is very nice with 16 beds well spaced apart.  There are 2 bathrooms for 14 pilgrims which is adequate. Payment is by donation and includes dinner, breakfast and drinks. Very good value.

  There was wine and a sangria type drink flowing before dinner and some sausage was barbecued with buns just to wet our appetites as we waited for dinner.  Fernanda prepared a hearty and traditional  dinner of  soup and bread, followed by chicken, rice and a salad. Add bottles of red and white wine and you’ve got some very happy pilgrims.  
 After dinner we headed back outside to the yard where a German pilgrim called Arnold played guitar while he sang songs.  Everyone was in a very jolly mood by now.  Pilgrim party in full  blast!        Lots of people took turns singing songs from their respective countries.  Petra was particularly good with a lovely strong voice. I would have sang if I had half her voice.

Fernanda and her husband got in the act and sang a few songs that I didn’t understand, but still enjoyed.   

 The whole night was lots of fun which meant I wasn’t blogging until much later and am finishing and posting the next day – which is alright too, so says the Camino.

Day 16 – Lavra to Pedra Furada

Juergen and I were on the road by 7 this morning, but not before collecting our Pilgrims Passport s back from the office. It’s the first place that has done that. They must have had some encounters with shady pilgrims in the past – it’s the only reason I can think of.

I must say the scenery was not very good today. We walked on mostly busy roads and sidewalks. Plus we were in a few industrial areas.  We ended up on the old route to reconnect Coastal to main Portuguese route and it was so very poorly marked – almost needed a magnifying glass at some intersections. It was at such a place that we found no marker at all and ended up wandering around for almost an hour – getting nowhere in a hurry. I wanted to go back to the last arrow and go from there but that did not happen.

Near the end of my patience we were directed to a cafe where the gal who ran the place spoke excellent English – and that’s because she was from Toronto Canada.  Yes!!

The long and short of it was that we took a taxi to Rates. Once there Jurgen checked into the albergue and I walked a further 7 kms to Pedra Furada. I had read many good reports about the place there so was happy that the taxi ride made it possible to have the energy left for the final push. That stretch of the walk was once again stunning. I see they have the giant white marshmellows in Portugal just like we have at home.  I really think the Portuguese country side is beautiful.  

  
 I found the restaurant named Pedra Furada and Antonio who runs the albergue for pilgrims in the back. While I was checking in a couple other pilgrims arrived. And guess where they were from? !!!  Canada, and more specifically South Surrey, which is a 20 minute drive from where I live. Now if that is not a small world I don’t know what is!!

I am back in Pilgrim heaven after a tough day on the road.  Antonio’s sister will be preparing us a chicken dish with rice tonight.  It’s a lovely place – I’m sharing a dorm room with the 2 Surrey pilgrims and now the last girl (Croatia) in our room has just arrived.  She said “hello” as she passed by so you know what that means – speaks English!

Day 15 – Porto to Lavra

 Said my goodbyes to Adam and Chrissy this morning – I’m going to miss their company but will see them again soon in Paris on June 5th, so something more to look forward to.   I walked down to the square and had some coffee and pastries at a cafe while I waited for my meetup with Jurgun. He and I will be travelling part of the coastal route together. I decided to have a short day today so as to spend time in the nice little seaside village of Lavra that has been highly recommended by other pilgrims.  I thought I might try the coastal route if the weather remained good. So far we have been amazingly lucky with the sunshine and warm weather. We have not had one day of rain or even clouds.  This is abnormal but I’m not complaining. So what if I brought a rain jacket for nothing.  Probably if I didn’t bring it we’d have had nothing but rain. That’s how it often works isn’t it?

We took the metro out of Porto and I remembered how to get us there from the day before. Maybe I’m getting better with my directions.   Once we arrived at Matosinhos we began our walk towards the ocean. It didn’t take long – within 15 minites we were  there and the Atlantic Ocean  before us. There was a wide gravel pathway that we walked on for quite some time, later to be replaced with a wooden boardwalk.   The walk was calm and peaceful after the business of Porto.  We saw surfers, sun bathers and many runners. It made me want to slip out of my boots and join them for a run along the seashore.  
 We arrived at Lavra and found the camping place and it’s a dear little building with 2 small rooms, a mini fridge, electricity, wifi and a little deck out front with table and chairs – all this for only $16 euros a night total.   We headed into town which was nearby and sat admiring the Atlantic Ocean for a while as the surf pounded the rocks. Bliss!  This is small community but with lots of hussle and bustle. As we sat there this afternoon having coffee we saw a lot of pilgrims going by.  I’ve heard that after Porto it gets a lot busier as many pilgrims prefer the shorter distance of Porto to Santiago, rather than from Lisboa. To each their own.  I’m just so grateful to have discovered the Caminos. I will be back!

Day 14 – Porto, more fun with Adam and Chrissy

Short post today.  It was a day to show Adam and Chrissy the Lello Bookstore, followed by a trip on the metro out to the beach area at Matosinhos.  While there I checked out the arrows for the coastal route for the camino. Walked over the bridge and saw the first arrow. I may be walking with Jurgen tomorrow as he has been in touch and is also interested in that route. It would be nice to start the second half of this camino with some company.  
 They have many seafood restaurants in this area and it seemed like everyone was barbecuing fish. After spending a little time on the sand we went for a big and delicious meal of fish and all the accompaniments.  I had my first sampling of swordfish and it was superb!

 Took the subway back to the other side of Porto and where they were having a free Fado performance. We caught a good half hour and sipped some Port while we watched and listened. 

   Another good day. Tomorrow the walking  begins again. Weather forecast is for more good weather 26 and 27 degrees for the next 5 days.  So lucky and so grateful!  Adam and Chrissy will be off to the Azores – Portuguese islands off the coast and reported to be quite beautiful.

Day 13 – Porto day of rest, Adams birthday

Happy Birthday to my son Adam – 31 today!  Where did all those years go?  So proud of him and the man he has become.

After walking great distances every day it was nice to have the day off and be a tourist. There was a tour package for 19 euros that included a hop on/off bus trip with narration, a river cruise and a port tasting and tour of facility. We did it all!  The bus trip was a couple hours and it seemed to go everywhere. 
         We learned all about the making of Port and afterwards enjoyed two glasses of  this deliciously sweet liquid – white (usually before dinner well chilled), and tawny port for after dinner.   Both were very good.  
   We decided to have lunch as we were feeling a little tipsy after the Port testing.  Next was the narrated river cruise and I loved being out on the water learning more about my surroundings .  There are many bridges in Porto and we travelled under most of them.  The gentle lull of the boat on the water was  soon having an affect on the three of us as we  found ourselves dozing off in the late afternoon sunshine. 

 There was an interesting statuesque like man along the boardwalk   At first I didn’t know if he was real or not as the makeup was so good and he was extremely still.  We watched a few people have their picture taken with him and when they donated a few coins, he would bang his hammer arm several times.   I couldn’t resist and also went for the photo opp.  I have found it a struggle to keep up my blogging while in Porto so you’ll have to excuse this late post. Once on the road again I will get back to my routine. I have one more day in Porto with Adam and Chrissy. Oh, also their Air BNB place is quite nice. Adam did well finding it and I am enjoying the break from the hostel/albergie life.

Day 12 – Sao Joao da Madeira to Porto

After breakfast I set off with Claudia and Daniel (Italy). It was coolish again but walking with a 10 kilo pack soon warms you up. It didn’t take long until we were pealing our extra layers off.  We got our first glimpses of the Atlantic Ocean after a wee climb. We could see a hazy blue way off in the distance.  
Around the 12 km mark we stopped for coffee and I enjoyed my first pastel de nata of the day.  These little custard tarts are always delicious and my pilgrim appetite appreciates it when they’re on the large size too, oink oink!

 The villagers were busy again today, women washing clothes and I was lucky enough to see  a few men laying down new street cobbles.  What a tough back breaking job!  We arrived at the town of Grigo after almost 5 hours in our boots. I decided to take the bus into Porto with Claudia and Daniel and bypass the busy industrial areas as well.  They didn’t have to twist my arm too hard. I was going to stop and continue on the next day but I looked around and quickly decided I’d rather be in the exciting city of Porto with friends than by myself in a small town with a tough and dangerous walk the next day.  For all that was to happen later on it was an excellent choice.

The bus soon arrived and we began our approach to Porto. How the bus driver got thru all those small and crowded  streets was amazing. I got to see what I could have been walking thru and was doubly happy with my choice.  When we were just before the bridge into Porto we got off the bus so we could walk across the bridge into the city and enjoy the views. Such stunning views from atop this bridge. The top portion is used for trains and people while the bottom is for cars, trucks etc.  Enjoy some of the views yourself.  
 We walked into this bustling and very beautiful city with its grand old buildings and I was in awe.  We were not able to get into the same place as the others, so Daniel and I found accommodation a short distance away at the Residential Portuguese  – definitely not a 5 star but good enough for one night.  We all met up a short while later for a drink  and then Uli (Claudia’s sister) and I were going to re-use some tickets for the blue bus tour of the city. Unfortunately we realized that the last bus had already left. So we wandered around this interesting city and I slowly started getting my bearings.

There is so much to see and do here, I am glad I will have a few non-camino rest days with my son Adam and his  girlfriend Chrissy. We also found the Llello Bookstore and went inside for a look. It is reported as one of the  most beautiful bookstores in the world. 
 As I had arrived in Porto a day early I let my son Adam know. Then surprise, surprise it turned out they had already arrived in Porto as well and were within 10 minutes of the restaurant we were sipping wine at.  They joined us for dinner and I was overjoyed to see them both. It was nice for Chrissy to have the company of the German girls Claudia and Uli, as Chrissy is also from Germany.  Matti, the Finnish pilgrim joined us later. The wine flowed as did the conversation and when the food arrived it was excellent.  A most memorable dinner at the Yours Guesthouse.

All good things come to an end and so we walked back to our respective beds for the night.  I once again said goodbye to Claudia, Uli and Mattie.  They would be leaving Porto tomorrow via the coastal route while I will stay on for a few more days with Chrissy and Adam.  Our paths may cross again as they have already several times. It has been very nice getting to know them and sincerely hope one day they will come to Canada where I can show them some hospitality and help them explore our country.

Tomorrow is Adams birthday and I am looking forward to celebrating it with him and Chrissy.   We will be going on the open bus tour and river cruise of the city, as well as a port tasting.  Should be a great day with two favorite people.  

Day 11 – Albergaria-A-Velha to Sao Joao

Last nights dinner was very good and as I began, the two German girls Claudia and Uli walked by. They joined me for dinner and had the same recommended meal which included soup and a huge bowl of pork, cabbage, potatoes, carrots and another leafy vegetable.  We have all been missing our vegetables so this was supreme. Of course it included wine and we added in an ice cream bar. Uli and Claudia are trying to sample all of them while trekking.

I slept well in the old house. I got up to go to the loo down the hall in the middle of the night  and did not see any spooks, altho it was a bit eerie.

Today is another sunny day and with a long range forecast for more good weather. I know other pilgrims walking right now and they have not been as fortunate.  Happy, warm and dry on the Portuguese Camino.

I was out the door by 7 today and once out of town I was quickly into my first eucalyptus forest followed shortly by a second. Below is a picture of some harvested trees waiting to be picked up.

Only fell off route once today when I mistook directions and went up a busy highway. After half a km I decided to head back down but then spotted a woman selling cherries which I promptly bought. So it looks like the misdirect turned out all right, altho it was hair raising walking along side the speedy large trucks.

I got back on track and then the walk was quite lovely thru one small village after another. I came across a jolly group of women doing their laundry in a public laundry pool. They were more than happy to have their picture taken as you can see.

I continued on and had my first coffee and pastry at around the 12 km mark in a town called Pinheiro da Bemposta. The woman there makes her own pastries and they were again very appreciated and went well with the first coffee of the day. While I was relaxing there, Claudia the German girl came in and so we got to visit for a while. She is walking a lesser distance today and will take the bus for the last kms.  As I was walking longer I said goodbye and continued on my walk.

I made it to Sao Joao da Madeira by 4:00 and found the Residencial Solar. The kind woman at the front said there was one room left with two beds but I would have to share it with my friend. I was a little baffled about what she was talking about but when she said my friend knew me and was a tall woman I clued in that it was Claudia. What a wonderful surprise to be sharing with a pilgrim I already know and is nice to be around. We will go out for dinner shortly and see what this town has to offer.

Day 10 – Agueda to Albergaria-A-Velha

  
Well what a long day it was for a day that was supposed to be short. All started fine and a great breakfast was provided by the Albergue.  I had peaches, yogurt, banana, pear, some granola type mixture, orange pound cake and a cup of the best coffee.  Seems like a lot to shovel into my face I know. But all pilgrims have good healthy appetites. I’m just fitting in. As it turned out, it was a very good thing I had such a good start. Down the road i strode towards where I thought the arrows should resume and they did. That was the second thing that went right for the day. I walked off the busy road and onto a quiet road thru the first small town.  I looked up and to my right and saw I was being spied on I winked back and carried on just in case the special code was going on. 

I passed by some once very grand homes.   There was an interesting contraption for drying hay.  After that a recycled plastic bottle scarceow arrangement.  

  
   Soon I was walking thru the first eucalyptus forest for the day and it was refreshing and very scenic. The trail wound over and by a few old roman bridges. They sure did build them to last.   I now find I’m not a bit apprehensive when passing thru the forest on my own. I especially enjoy them when it’s windy like it was today. They seem to be talking to you and the warmer it gets the more of their fragrance is in the air.   

   If you’ve been following this blog you know that there have been spectacular displays of flowers and trees and that the portuguese take great pride in their gardens. What  I saw today did not fit in at all – a massive brown and dead looking vine going right across the entire front of the property. I have no idea what it is or why someone would keep it up. Maybe one of my readers has an idea. It truly was hideous looking.   I came out of the forest and wound my way behind a great white church on the hill. I think at this point I was or was about to start walking on the royal way.  I saw a really curved arrow that wound back on itself and began going in that direction. There was a crew of men working on the overhead electrical wires and they pointed me away from my chosen path and indicated I should turn around and travel another direction. By doing so I was immediately walking along side a very busy road and soon over a new yellow bridge that was about a kilometre long. It felt wrong as there was nothing to note in my book or other guide about it and there wasn’t a single arrow confirming the direction along or shortly after. I assumed I missed something and retraced my steps back over this very long structure. I did not find any alternate route but by this time their was a couple walking to Fatima at the junction so I asked them. They confirmed it was over the bridge I indeed needed to go – ugh!  I saw that there was one of the new camino tiles in some scrubby grass partially hidden and indicating a trip over the bridge. I crossed the bridge a third time and once over did not see an arrow for a while confirming I was on the right course. Eventually the arrow appeared indicating a left turn and I was relieved as well as a little annoyed.  I believe the route has been recently changed causing pilgrims to walk in the traffic instead of the lovely country roads. Why they do that I don’t know but we’ve seen it a lot.  I later found out the old bridge had been shut down due  to structural problems and was impassible. 

I continued on and walked thru my second eucalyptus forest. I noticed that there were sections that had been clear cut and then further on  there was an area of new growth where they had replanted.    

 I came to my destination town and stopped into a cafe to get directions to the Casa da Alameda. I was told that it no longer was in business. The  very nice Frenchman told me there was another place that he thought was a hostel a little further out – not far. Yeah right!  I reached the place that was at least another 2 kms further and found it was a motel and it didn’t look the least bit appealing. I checked it out with a woman with no personality. I said I’d think about it and went out back onto the road just in time to see a transaction between a young woman in high heels, short dress and a big rig trucker. He pulled up, she got in and a short time later she was back.  It was time to get out of this neighbourhood even if I had to walk the extra distance to the next town.  I called the phone number for the place I had been told was no longer in business and spoke to 3 people before I got someone that could speak English and found out they were still in business after all!  I gave them my name and told them I was coming.  I found the place and was really relieved that my search was over. It’s a big place that has seen better days but it still does have a lot of charm. So much in fact that I wouldn’t be surprised if it was haunted.  I will let you know after tonight.  I have a double room with a shared bath for 15 euros – good value and no extra charge for ghosts.  

I will treat myself to a good dinner tonight at a place recommended by a fellow blogger (Ponto Final).  I can use it after my  easy 16 km day turned into a 24 km drama day.

 One last picture from coming out of the second forest today. There was a young man with an axe in his hand and his mom pulling the branches all by herself.  I offered to help her but she indicated that she was strong. Really tho, I thought her son should have been helping her.